Tuchberery Widmann

For orange coloring

Färbermeier (Asperula tinctoria) - orange (roots) Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) - orange and olive

For dyeing red

Field red (Sherardia arvensis) - red
Dahlias - red (flowers)
Dost (Origanum vulgare) - brown and crimson (herb)
Real stone seeds (Lithospermum officinale) - red (root) Raspberry (Rubus idaeus / caesus) - red-purple (fruit)
Corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas) - red
Madder, Dyer red (Rubia tinctorum) - red
Adder head (Echium vulgare) - red (root)
Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) - yellow (root); red (leaves) bogweed (Potentilla palustris) - red
Swamp sword lily (Iris pseudacorus) - yellow (flowers); red (roots) woodruff (Mercurialis perennis) - red and blue (roots) woodruff (Galium odoratum) - red (roots)

For dyeing blue

Real elephant (Inula helenium) - blue
Garden Melde (Atriplex hortensis) - blue (stem)
Common Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris) - blue (flower)
Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) - blue-purple (berries)
Juniper (Juniperus communis) - blue (needles)
Waid, German Indigo (Isatis tinctoria) - blue and green Forest ringwort (Mercurialis perennis) - red and blue (root) Dwarf leaf, Attich (Sambucus ebulus) - blue

For dyeing green

Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum) - green (young tips) Genuine motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca) - olive
Big nettle (Urtica dioica) - green (leaves and shoots) Curled rhubarb (Rheum rharbarbarum) - green

Privet (Ligustrum vulgarum) - green (leaves) Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) - green (leaves) Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) - green (plant green) Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) - orange and olive woad, German indigo (Isatis tinctoria) - blue and green
Waldziest (Stachys sylvatica) - green (leaves)

Aktiv-Kreativ - Forum for Robes 2008 1

madder

Dye extraction:
The 20 to 30cm long roots are collected from the third year in spring and autumn, dried and finally chipped or ground. The red color only develops as the rhizomes dry.

To dye:
The dye in the dried madder root is a stain dye for wool, cotton and silk. For coloring, the roots are soaked in water the day before. During the dyeing process, the textile material comes into the dye bath together with the madder root and the soaking water. The bath is kept constant at a temperature of 70-80 ° C for about an hour. If you go above this with the temperature, the color is not red, but a little more brown. The bath should be stirred constantly so that the coloring is even. When using alum for pickling, bright red shades are created on the fabric fiber, iron salts lead to brownish nuances.

Make-up root Alkanna coloring ox tongue Bark and roots: alkannin and alkannan, anchusic acid and alkannic acid

Dye extraction and dyeing:
The dyes from the alkanna root are not water-soluble. Therefore you pour alcohol over the roots and let the mixture stand for one night. Then filter through a tea towel and mix the whole thing with hot water that contains a few drops of dishwashing detergent. The pre-pickled textiles can be dyed in this solution. With an alum stain, you get violet colorations, which are, however, relatively light-sensitive.

Dyer's gorse dyes: luteolin in flowers, leaves and twigs

Dye extraction:
The coloring parts of the plant are best collected and dried before flowering.

To dye:
Dyer's gorse, like Reseda, is one of the stain dyes. The dyeing takes place on pre-stained wool. Since dyer's gorse is not as strong in color as Reseda, the dye extract must be particularly concentrated. With alum stain a lemon yellow is obtained, which becomes dark brown after an aftertreatment with iron (II) sulfate. With copper (II) sulfate as a pickling agent, a green-olive color is also available.

Dyer's chamomile dyes: apigenin, luteolin, quercetagenin and paluletin in flowers and leaves

Dye extraction:
The flower heads are collected and dried during the flowering period.

Tuchweberey - Forum for Garments 2008.

To dye:
The dyes in dyer's chamomile belong to the stain dyes, they turn yellow. The pre-staining is done with alum, it is dyed like Reseda. When using tartar as a pickling agent, the color tends to be golden yellow.

Dyer's master dyes: in the root pseudopurpurin, purpurin, alizarin

Dye extraction and dyeing:
The extraction and dyeing corresponds to the process used in the extraction of madder root

Dyer's sumac dyes: leaves: myricetin, quercetin, kaempferol, including heartwood: fisetin, fustin, sulfuretin

Dye extraction:
The heartwood of the shrub is chopped up and processed into flour. Then the flour is boiled with dilute soda solution and the filtered solution is evaporated to a density of 1.04g / cm3. When it cools down, a brown-green dye separates out, which, after filtering off and drying, comes on the market as "cotinine". The color strength should be 60 times stronger than that of normal wood.

To dye:
The wool, pre-stained with alum or tartar, is dyed in a concentrated extract of fiseth wood. With weaker concentrations, yellow to orange shades are obtained; with higher concentrations, dark red shades are also possible - for example with a stain made from 25% alum and 6% tartar.

indigo

Dye extraction:
The plant parts are cut off at flowering time and covered with water in large containers and left to ferment. The water-soluble, yellow dye indican is oxidized with air to form dark blue, water-insoluble indigo. After drying, this is cut into blocks and is sold in this way. The conversion process is accelerated by hitting sticks and shovels, which allows a lot of air to get into the dye solution.

To dye:
Indigo is a vat dye. For dyeing, the indigo blocks are pulverized and brought back to their original water-soluble and yellow form using a so-called vatting agent. The textile pieces, which initially turn bright yellow, are dipped into the vat made in this way. When exposed to air, the yellow dye indican on the textile pieces then finally converts back to blue indigo. Jeans are still dyed in this way today, provided that real, vegetable indigo is still used.

Aktiv-Kreativ - Forum for Robes 2008 3

Woad

To dye:
The woad balls were previously moistened with urine by the dyers' employees, the woad servants, and subjected to renewed fermentation. After a storage period of around two years, the fermented woad was taken to the dye houses. There it was stirred again with urine and potash at 60 ° C. Only after 3 days did a broth emerge, the vat, which was suitable for dyeing. The textiles were immersed in the vat for an hour. When the dyed fabrics were pulled out, they were initially colored yellow. The blue color only developed on the textiles through oxidation when they were exposed to air.

Dyer girl eye

Dye extraction and dyeing:
The flowers are harvested and dried. The dyeing is the same as for Reseda. With an acidic alum stain, silk or wool can be dyed red-orange.

reseda

To dye:
The dried Reseda is first boiled in a dye pot with water. In contrast to the dyeing with madder, you need a lot more plant material. The extract is then filtered through a linen cloth. Reseda is also one of the stain dyes. The pre-pickling of the silk or wool is usually done with alum. Weinstein tends to produce brown tones. The real secret of reseda dyeing is to add a few teaspoons of lime to the dye bath. This is the only way to create intense yellow tones. After the addition of lime, the pre-pickled material is dyed in the boiling dye liquor for one hour.

Articles / newspaper articles for download:

1. Medieval fans talk about clothing:

2. The Horber cloth:

3. The cloth weaving mill on the Neckar - the forum:

1. 2. 3.